Early Spring Pictures From A Meditation Garden

Laura Adams got a new camera and made some beautiful pictures of the Myrtle Hill meditation garden in early spring.

The garden in the historical cemetery in Rome, Georgia, was started in 2016. There seems to be something magic about this garden. It was built on the theme of “Three Rivers and Seven Hills,” and some very good soil was hauled in to build the “seven hills.” It just seems that everything I plant in this garden thrives. Maybe it’s the quiet neighborhood.

Here’s the garden tour. Thank you Laura for the beautiful pictures

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The stone walkway represents the three rivers of Rome

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Dianthus in a rock bed. A dependable perennial

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lovely spring iris

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The hillside supports the plants. The plants maintain the hillside symbiosis at its best

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The Japanese maples will eventually form an arch over the walk way

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Their common name is “Sweet William.” They are a member of the same family as the carnation.

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The ornamental iron fencing was a gift from Mike McDougald from his childhood home

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The comfy benches are nested into a planting of fragrant gardenias and tea olives

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several boulders have been placed for sitting, enjoyment, and pondering

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a wonderful year for iris blooms


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The photographer took care to frame the shots just right


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I love the window to the mountains framed by the overhanging Japanese maples.

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a study in blues and purples


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Summer color will be added to the garden during the first part of May

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A walk through this garden will provide a connection with serenity and peace.


I don’t know about you but I truly enjoyed the tour. Now I will have to get out my pruning shears and go over there to clip a few tips.

There is a story to this garden. I posted it a while back. To see the story of the garden click here



A Garden Tour of the Callaway Estate in LaGrange, Georgia. Part one of several

Let me tell you a secret.
There is a magnificent garden to visit in LaGrange, Georgia.

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A map of the garden started in 1841 by Sarah Coleman Ferrell as she expanded a garden started by her mother in 1832

My wife and I made plans to go to LaGrange for a Saturday visit with some friends. Dekie and I like to visit small towns and see the sights, the architecture, and to just get a feel for the places that we visit. I have driven through LaGrange many times on my way to and from my hometown of Columbus, Georgia. I had never stopped to look around until this past weekend. Our friends mentioned the Callaway Estate (not to be confused with Ida Cason Callaway Gardens in Pine Mountain) that had some “interesting grounds.”

And the grounds were, indeed, interesting. I took pictures as we walked through the beautiful gardens and I will share these in several articles. I knew it was going to be good when we drove up and I saw the pruning job on the plants around this sign:

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carefully pruned shrubbery by an entrance sign.

I looked around after we parked and saw that the natural areas were inviting and interesting.

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Natural areas and pathways welcome us from the parking lot

The well-tended loropetalum plant against the welcome center wall was a great blend of color and texture.

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I love that shaped loropetalum

The entrance plantings were delightful. I wanted to shrink myself down and get lost in the maze.

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A boxwood parterre on each side of the entrance to the visitor center carries a sort of magic feeling

We were about a week late for the azalea bloom but I could tell that they had been magnificent. The garden, however, is able to stand on its own without depending on the azalea blooms and I’m sure that our visit was a lot less crowded than it would have been.

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There are lots of isolated visual treats

Another view of the entry garden shows that the background is also very important and well-done.

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I love the way the background merges with the total picture.

When we walked out on the rear landing, right away, I was taken by the pathway meandering through the vista. The trees were all manicured and precisely placed.

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I wonder what’s at the end of this pathway?

I love planters as accents. This arborvitae topiary was matched on other corners.

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topiary plantings in flower pots make a statement

There were a lot of Chinese fringe trees (Chionanthus retusus). We were just in time to catch the flowers. I could tell that the trees had been totally full of blooms a week before.

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Chinese fringe trees make a statement

All of today’s pictures were taken before I even got to the actual gardens. I will post more in another post in a few days. Stay tuned.

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The garden tour begins from this point. Tune in for the next article, or subscribe.

Grow your own Hydrangea Plants From Cuttings.

Just like Grandma did

Rooting Hydrangeas in April.

You can start your own hydrangea plants in April just like Grandma did in the “Good old days.”

rooting hydrangea in April

This is the “Phantom” hydrangea which forms blooms on new growth. Cuttings may be rooted in early spring without interfering with the bloom cycle

(I’m writing this article on April 6 in Northwest Georgia. At this time of year your hydrangea plants could look different according to how far north or south you are of Rome, Georgia.)

I am not talking about all varieties of hydrangea here. Some Hydrangea plants form their flower buds in the fall and winter. These varieties do not need to be cut this time of year because this will stop the plants from blooming. These varieties are the “big leaf varieties” such as Nikko blue or pink. They are commonly called “mopheads.” You should wait to cut on these varieties after they bloom. The big leaf mopheads look something like this picture.

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This is a picture of the leaves of hydrangea macrophylla or “big leaf” hydrangea. These plants form their flower buds in late fall or winter. They should be propagated immediately after blooming, not in April

Some hydrangheas form their blooms on new growth. These are referred to as the  “smooth leafe hydrangeas” and include varieties such as Annabelle, Limelight, and Phantom (which is what I am using.) These varieties commonly bloom later in the year and that means that some of the tips may be safely removed in Aril and early May. The foliage looks like that in the picture below.

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The “smooth leaf” hydrangeas form their blooms on new growth. These are the ones to use for rooting in april.

Since this Phantom variety is one of those that bloom on this year’s growth, I can remove some of the tips and leave some others. This way I will get a succession of flowering and as a bonus, when I cut the tips it will cause the plant stems to branch out which will mean even more flowers. So to start the propagation process, I reach in and cut a few tips. I cut them about eight inches long.:

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take about an 8 to 10 inch cutting from the plant as shown

The place where the leaves and tiny lateral buds are attached to the stem is called a “node.” I have trimmed the stem to just up under the node and I have also removed the leaves. This is where the roots will develop.

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prepare the hydrangea cutting by removing lower leaves and trimming close to the leaf node

Next, I will take several of the prepared cuttings, bunch them up, and stick them in a vase of water. The vase will be placed in a cool, shady (but not dark) location. I use a clear vase because the cuttings will suck up the water and the vase will need more water ever few days.

The cuttings in the picture below have been in there for at least a coupleof weeks. If I look closely I can see that the bases of the stems have gotten larger and that they are getting ready to send out some roots. Once the roots grow out a little bit, I will pot them up with some good potting soil. At that time I will pinch the top growth bud off of the stems to encourage branching.

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hydrangea cuttings in a vase of water waiting for roots to form

One more piece of information: The linguistic root of the word hydrangea is “hydra” which means “water” (hydrated, for instance).

A good article on pruning hydrangeas in January which goes into the different types of hydrangeas can be found here

Thank you for visiting John the Plant Man.

How to mix your own super potting soil

My secret formula for making good potting soil and saving money.

Good, clean potting soil, it’s cheap, and it really works.

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I need to repot some older plants and plant some new ones. I’m going to need a lot of potting soil and potting soil is expensive. I’ve been thinking about it for some time and I’ve figured out how to put together a mix that will do a wonderful job of growing our plants over the coming season. A mix like this is cheaper than buying regular potting soil. I’ll do a cost analysis at the end of the article.

Potting soil is an art form. In 1970 when I got a part time job at a commercial greenhouse, my first job was to mix potting soil. It’s a fun job. I’m still doing it 48 years later. Here’s the secret:

On March 31, I did a bit of shopping. I got some soil conditioner, mushroom compost, peat moss, and lime from Willow Creek Nursery.


peat moss, mushroom compost, soil conditioner, and lime for excellent potting soil

The soil conditioner is a finely ground bark. A two cubic foot bag cost $3.00. I’m sure that there are different brand names and different consistencies everywhere.  I wanted something to make up the bulk of the soil mix that wouldn’t pack, was relatively lightweight, and would remain porous. It also had to be cheap. I dumped a bag into my wheelbarrow:

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A finely ground organic soil conditioner is a good start.

Next I needed something to supply growth organisms and to hold a bit of moisture.

mushroom compost

straight from the mushroom farm. This is good stuff.

Many years ago a man from Tennessee brought me pickup truck loads of wonderful black stuff from a mushroom farm north of Chattanooga. Mushroom growing mix is highly specialized and it can only be used once, so the mushroom farm just threw it away at that time. I got it delivered (I had to help shovel it off the truck) for maybe $40.00. Now it costs right at five dollars for a 40 lb. bag—but it goes a long way.  I dumped in about a third of the bag, pouring a layer of it on top of the soil conditioner.

potting soil mixing

add the ingredients in layers, they will mix more evenly that way

Next is peat moss. I bought a one cubic foot bag for $9.95. I could have saved money by buying a larger bag but I was thinking more like a homeowner and hobbyist. I figure that this will be enough for four large mixes. The peat moss will help to hold moisture and nutrients, and it is relatively light-weight. I have now made three layers of materials in the wheelbarrow.

peat moss in the potting soil

the peat moss is tightly packed and should be broken up and added as a layer

Most organic soil materials are a bit on the acid side and we need to rectify this. I use a bit of pelletized lime to change the pH (acidity balance) toward slightly basic (alkaline).

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pelletized lime acts quickly to balance the potting soil

This is important for most plants, but if you are using the soil for azaleas or camellias, you may wish to leave the lime out. Some evergreens also prefer an acid soil. I am a firm believer in the positive effects of lime in potting soil. I just spread a bit on top:

adding lime to potting soil mix

spread lime over the potting soil prior to mixing

There are a lot of different time release fertilizers. Osmocote is a good one. These fertilizers are made so that they will break down over a period of several months. I like a fertilizer balance with a high middle number (phosphorous) but sometimes it’s hard to find and in that case a balanced plant food (14-14-14 for instance) will do.

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sprinkle time release fertilizer over the potting soil mix

The next step is fun. Mix the concoction thoroughly. It is also good to add some water after it is well mixed and turn it over one more time. This mix looks good, it sounds good, but more importantly, it feels good—and it’s cost effective—a good product at a good price.

mix potting soil with a shovel

The dry ingredients are easy to blend with a shovel or by hand. Then add a bit of water

It was a beautiful day. My wife has been working on some tree-form camellias and I was able to pot up several of them without spending a fortune on potting soil.

camellia planted with home made potting mix

These big pots use a lot of potting soil, but the plants grow well in them

Here’s my cost:

Soil conditioner, $3.00, mushroom compost, $5.00, peat moss, $10.00, lime, $4.00. I bought four bags of the soil conditioner and using the other additives will make up four wheelbarrow mixes. The one wheelbarrow load that I made for this article used one bag of conditioner and ¼ bag of the peat and mushroom compost. The bag of lime will do about 20 mixes. So this mix was $3.00 (conditioner )+ $1.25 (mushroom compost)+ $2.50 (peat moss)—add on a bit for lime and fertilizer and you will have about ten dollars for three cubic feet of some really good potting soil—and you know what’s in it. Compare that with two cubic feet of comparable, prepared potting soil, which would cost you about $15. This type of savings really adds up over the long haul.

Have fun gardening, and share this with your friends,

John Schulz

Another article that may be helpful this spring is about an easy way to apply liquid fertilizer on your plants
















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